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Discover our articles on the perfume industry, illustration homemade & photography interviews and analyses

  • 22 nov. 2021
  • 3 min de lecture

Francis Kurkdjian, one of the most well-known and influential names in the perfumery industry, is the person behind the world’s popular perfumes. Le Male by Jean-Paul Gautier, My Burberry by Burberry, Eau de Noire by Christian Dior, and many more were created by him.

Born in Brou-sur-Chantereine a countryside town in France, his father is a computer engineering and his mother works for French education. He has an admiration for his father. He grew up in a loving family that has high respect for the culture of the host country after the Armenian massacre. He had a passion for dancing and wanted to be a professional dancer. However, he failed at the entrance contest. He then discovered a new passion in perfumery which changes his life forever. With the sharp vision of his father, he proposed his son go to perfumeries school after graduating from Sup de Luxe. His success began at the age of 25 after the creation of Le Male by Jean-Paul Gautier in 1995 which had a huge commercial success. He stayed in New York for three and a half years working for a house called Quest. He devoted his time and creativity to creating scents and collaborating with different houses and worked with designers, influencers, and celebrities to compose olfactory for them. He worked with some of the world’s biggest names in luxury and beauty, for instance, Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, Versace, Lanvin, Guerlain, Narciso Rodriguez, Elie Saab, Ungaro, Yves Saint Laurent. In 2001 he decided to open an atelier specializing in custom-made fragrances. Francis Kurkdjian is the first person who opened the atelier to propose scents under the perfumer’s name. Despite tough challenges from packaging, process, pricing to looking for clients who did not really exist at that time, it allowed him to express himself and understand what he is capable of in the perfumery world.


Later, he met Marc Chaya, who advised him about strategies and became his partner. Chaya grew up in a family that valued arts which influenced his creative side since he was young. He loved drawing and similar to Francis, he loved dancing. He spent most of his time discovering different types of literature, arts, and music. Then at the age of 11, his father decided that creative activities could be his hobbies and he should focus on math and science. He kept his creative side and passion for arts while walking into the economics and business management path. Chaya met the perfumer, Francis, who made him realize how little space perfumers are placed upfront when creating scents. In 2009, the two decided to take another step of their career to a new height by co-creating Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

This perfume house would allow them to bring out the strong sides, Business, and Perfumery to the world. The brand offers fragrance with the value “fragrance wardrobe” that men and women are able to express themselves through the perfume with the know-how in perfume creation. Its personality is formed with the creativity of a man who is passionate in the precision of purity, sophistication, timelessness, and the boldness of a classicism reinvented.


In 2016 became a member of the Comité Colbert, the association that promotes French luxury and art de vivre around the world. The brand announced that LVMH group has the largest share in the company in March 2017. They believe that LVMH's vision in the Luxury industry would support and develop the growth of Maison Francis Kurkdjian globally. The decision has been taken after the meeting between the two parties, LVMH Group and Marc Chaya, and Francis Kurkdjian.


By Supichcha Pam Wanichchokij

22/11/2021

References:







"- Hello, thank you for answering my questions for the blog Aroma Diary. How would you define the Chanel N°5, and what are the sales arguments for this perfume range?


- First of all, there is the Eau de parfum, which is the most famous. It's a bouquet of flowers spiced up with vanilla. It is different and timeless. We are still celebrating 100 years of the N°5 collection, which is a symbol of the house.


- It is true that it is found everywhere, even on your over your sweater.


- Yes, it is true and even also on the facades of the shops. N°5 is now available in 5 versions. There is the perfume extract dating from 1921 and then the N°5 Eau de parfum with vanilla, the Eau de Toilette which has a bottle very different from the others. More recently, L’Eau Première and N°5 L’Eau have been released. Do you know the details related to the bottle and the cap?


- I know the shape is initially inspired by the flabby of a Gabrielle Chanel lover.


- Ah, I did not know this detail. In fact, the bottles were designed in such a way that the cabochon echoed the motif of Place Vendôme, which was near Coco Chanel's apartments because she lived at the Ritz for years. It was in Rue Cambon that she opened her first hat shop in 1910.


- Interesting. In general, how would you define the clientele buying perfume N°5?


- The Eau de parfum evokes a lot of emotions. It is timeless because it is in some way a heritage; we all had a figure like our grandmother, who wore the number 5. The clientele is mostly rather elderly; it is mixed. Some men buy this perfume too.


- It's true that there was an advertisement with Brad Pitt for N°5.


- Yes, that is true, and the last two versions, L'Eau Première and N°5 L'eau appeal to a younger clientele.


- Maybe also thanks to icons like Lily-Rose Depp.


- Certainly yes, but these two versions really have more pep than the others.


- Do you associate the perfume with anyone?



- Chanel N°5 perfume is easily associated with celebrities. It was the Parfum de Marilyn that wore it to sleep, and it was worn by many others like Catherine Deneuve, if I am not mistaken.


- Yes, it's true.


- N°5 is iconic. When we smell it, we think of a member of our family like our grandmother or of a figure that we admire or that is familiar to us."


With this interview, we can see the importance of the brand's history in the sales process. The salespeople have extensive training in the brand's history, the different products, and Coco Chanel designer. In the case of Chanel N°5, every detail is explained. For example, the shape of the bottle that evolved over the years. At first it was a minimalist bottle inspired by the Russian Imperial Guard vodka flasks owned by Coco's lover, and now this bottle is imagined as a jewel filled with history. It respects the codes of Coco by mixing elegance and transparency. In addition, the echo in Place Vendôme makes sense because it reflects the brand's origins and the seamstress's past.

Today, we find the shape of the bottle and the number 5 everywhere on the outfits of the sales team or on the facades of Chanel shops such as 19 rue Cambon. For Christmas 2020 we saw the Camellias, the Tweed, signature material of Chanel, the 5 branch comet symbol of the "Bijoux de Diamants" and of course the Chanel N°5, first perfume bearing the name of a seamstress.


The Collection for Chanel N°5 now consists of 5 versions targeting a varied clientele by playing on the perfumes' composition, packaging, and chosen muses. Its flowery composition considered as "a bouquet" of 80 ingredients is highlighted and each component creating vanilla, sweet or floral notes are presented to please demanding customers.

For some, N°5 plays on our sensitivity and awakens feelings such as nostalgia when thinking of our family members, and for others, the scent is that of stars like Marilyn Monroe. It remains a timeless classic, and if we let ourselves be tempted, we can end up buying this sure value.


Thank you very much, Clément, for answering my questions and introducing me to the Chance collection.


Thanks you for reading our articles, I hope you enjoyed it !

Don't hesitate to leave a comment or a like !


This interview was realized on November 17, 2021, at Galeries Lafayette at the clearly visible CHANEL stand in the center of the coupole.

By Flore Brault

22/11/2021

References Images:

Photos were taken on 17/11/2021 and in December 2020 by Flore Brault


French post-war brands like Chanel were able to diversify thanks to the invention of the licensing system, which encouraged the creation of new products to reach a broad audience. Their presence on the covers of magazines or at high profile events contributes to the development of great notoriety.


The launch of the Chanel N°5 is considered to be the first luxury marketing operation. In 1921, the choice of components, including the aldehydes, was deemed to be revolutionary. Its short, numerical name is shocking in an era when scents are usually metaphorical echoes.

Thanks to careful packaging, selective distribution and the first confidential communication, Chanel N°5 is one of the first buzzes that has become a global success. It is still the subject of millions of euros in marketing spending. For years, prestigious directors and glamorous muses have been running advertising campaigns all over the world.




Gabrielle Chanel opted for a "non-media" type marketing strategy by first offering N°5 to her best customers, who thus became her first muses. Gabrielle Chanel was herself the face of her perfume in 1937 and even embodied her perfume in advertisements for American magazines.


Marylin will succeed her and will initially be sensual to the perfume Chanel N°5. The movie legend would become one of the fragrance's most excellent ambassadors, although she was never an official face of the brand in her lifetime.

In 1952, in an interview she conducted for the American magazine Life, she was asked what she wears to sleep.

Her response: "I don't wear anything at night, just a few drops of Chanel 5". Sales of the product exploded. In 2013, more than 50 years after her death, she was featured in a Chanel campaign, thanks to a photo of Ed Feingersh, where the icon is seen wearing perfume, number 5 bottle in hand. Even today, we still speak of this perfume as "that of Marilyn Monroe". At least that's what a lot of men ask of perfume consultants.

However, by the end of the '60s, the perfume evoked less sophistication and could be identified by the general public. Wertheimer N˚5 reduced the number of outlets and entrusted his artistic director Jacques Helleu with the supervision of all creative decisions. Helleu was inspired by Coco's words "'pure transparency an invisible bottle" for the photos that restored the brand's exclusive image. During the 1970s, Helleu, Avedon and Deneuve collaborated to create exceptionally simple and graceful images. They are still some of the most iconic and powerful photographs in the history of beauty marketing today.

The Chanel company invests in promotion through different channels. Advertisements are shown in magazines, on posters or television. The publicity of the house are masterpieces. As early as 1937, Miss Chanel posed near the foyer of her apartment at the Ritz de Paris to illustrate Chanel perfumes. Famous models and actresses like Nicole Kidman, Carole Bouquet, Ali MacGraw, Suzy Parker, Estella Warren, Marion Cotillard will follow.


At 16, Lili-Rose Depp will be the youngest ambassador of the house by becoming the face of the fifth variation of N°5 imagined by the current Chanel perfumer Olivier Polge.




Brad Pitt is the only man to date to embody a feminine perfume, particularly the N°5. The advertising campaign will last less than a year and garnered a lot of attention, causing misunderstanding with the black and white images and its rather sad atmosphere.


Whether in photos or short films, we find the greatest collaborators Patrick Demarchelier, Ridley Scott and Dominique Isserman. In 2004, Baz Luhrmann directed a two-minute short film with Nicole Kidman. The spot was a success and a profitable investment for CHANEL, boosting sales from 12% to 20%.

Fun fact, The Chanel N°5 makes a cameo in the movie The Visitors. Godefroy de Montmirail (Jean Reno) teleported since the Middle Ages in the castle occupied by his descendants, emptying a large flask in his bath. This scene has become cult-like, the perfume itself.


The house of Chanel also uses booming communication channels such as advertising and the Internet to promote these products to a broad audience. The "His kiss, his smile, his perfume" ad created for the "CHANEL N°5" perfume is made like a film with the spirit of "Hollywood" with star Nicole Kidman. The sales strategy puts forward a model to captivate many women who wish to look like this feminist beauty icon. Chanel is considered the most social luxury brand. Its ads set themselves apart from the competition by regularly featuring stars on popular platforms like Instagram. The content of publications is optimized to stand out from the competition thanks to production values that have the power to create user engagement.


Among all these incredible muses and you which one has marked you the most to have your preference? Don't hesitate to share it !

Flore Brault Custot

21/11/2021


References:


Images:

Lithographie publicitaire par Ses, 1927

Chanel N°5 advertisement (Nov. 1, 1937). For the first time, Gabrielle Chanel herself promoted her perfume. Photo: Francois Kollar © Ministère de la Culture - Médiathèque du Patrimoine, Dist. RMN.

Photo taken in person by Flore Brault (2020) during the Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion manifesto exhibition at the Palais Galliera

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