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Mix and uncertainty have always been part of Jean Paul Gaultier's brand. He is very good at blurring the boundary between male and female, which is why we can see many models full of neutral elements in his clothing design, such as gentleman-like female models and male models wearing skirts and lace fabrics. He took the concept of gender to the extreme, and the image he created of men in sailor suits and women in corsets became an unforgettable brand label.


However, his inner freedom and rebellion, as well as his attitude to diversity and uniqueness, fully make the brand break away from the inherent gender impression. In fact, it's not hard to find that all of Jean Paul Gaultier's men's fragrances smell more neutral compared to other brands men's fragrances with tobacco, leather, wood as the base notes. For Jean Paul Gaultier's women's fragrances, the overall scent is seductive and glamour, but in the meanwhile with a touch of calm and sophisticated. Jean-paul Gaultier argued that women have many facets, that they can be powerful and weak at the same time.

When it comes to women power, we have to mention Madonna and the legendary cone bra. The cone bra is one of Madonna's most famous and recognized stage costumes from her Blond Ambition Tour, designed by Jean Paul Gaultier in 1990.

In this classic work, we see femininity combining sex appeal and aggression. Jean Paul Gaultier elevated seduction to provocation, projecting a feminine power.


Wearing a cone corset, Madonna showed off the beauty of the female body, but also showed off the strength of the female, like a woman warrior in armor. In Madonna's words: "From now on a bra doesn't have to be hidden under a coat. It allows me to express myself."

Undoubtedly, it is this clever combination of retro and modern that has made it one of the best-known iconic works, and it has become a sign of times. Female power has always been part of Gaultier's fashion philosophy. "The budding of female sexual freedom in the 1960s culminated in Gaultier's cone corset for Madonna's concert tour." "Said fashion critic Suzy Menkes.

The outfit quickly launched Gaultier's career and cemented his relationship with the iconic singer. Madonna has been the brand's Muse for years. Gaultier went on to design stage costumes for Many of Madonna's concert Tours, and she even appeared as a model in his spring/summer '95 collection. They even attended the 2018 Met Gala together, where Madonna continued to wear Gaultier's designs, showcasing their unchanging friendship for nearly 30 years.

Gaultier and Madonna certainly complement each other, his design philosophy is to take the most basic style, plus "destruction" treatment or fusion, full display of exaggeration and humor, avant-garde, classical and strange mixture. It was in keeping with Madonna's image of edgy, sexy, stylish and surprising at the time.

Therefore, Madonna, as an iconic singer, undoubtedly best represents and interprets the essence of Jean Paul Gaultier's brand. She is also one of the symbols of the brand. At that time, Madonna's star effect brings great exposure and popularity to the brand. And Gaultier as a designer, through his talent and inspiration, better express the image that Madonna wanted to present.

Jean Paul Gaultier has collaborated with other stars after Madonna, and his criteria for choosing his collaborating stars have not changed, which is to fit his brand's ethos. In fact, no matter for stars or consumers, a major factor in choosing a brand is to see whether the concept and value of the brand are compatible with what they want.


(All the pictures are from Internet, if there is any infringement, please contact us to delete, thank you!)

by Johnny Qi

29/11/2021

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You may not have noticed the exquisite design of this brand, but as long as you saw the perfume bottles of this brand, you will never forget it no more! Its bottle designs are so unique and impressed, so that some people even collect them and keep them as decoration. The story we are telling today is about the legend brand —Jean Paul Gaultier.

Jean Paul Gaultier was born on April 18, 1952 in Arcueil, a suburb of Paris. As a young man, he has showed incredible talent for fashion and design. After years of working in the fashion field, In 1982, Jean-paul Gaultier founded his label with his partner Francis Menuge.


Mr. Gaultier launches his fashion show twice a year, using themes and titles that strongly convey his distinctive blend of influences. But undoubtedly,what earned him international media coverage was the corset stage costume that he designed for Madonna’s concert in 1990. That's why, when he released his first perfume in 1993, he has chosen to use a glass bottle with the design of female body in corset. This perfume, packaged in a shiny tin, was a huge hit when it was launched. Since then, a number of fragrances followed, including 1995's Le Male. The perfume bottle of Le Male was designed as a curvy man’s upper-body, with a classic Navy T-shirt, which has been the world's top-selling man’s fragrance in 2004.

Gaultier managed to incorporate two of his best-known design elements, the corset and navy shirt, into his perfume bottle design. The male and female upper body design for perfume bottle, has also become one of the brand's symbols. These design elements have certainly increased the brand awareness and identification. They also bring a strong brand image of liberal, sexy, romantic to the consumers. He let the brand convey a way to express yourself and be true to yourself. From self-care to love, Jean Paul Gaultier has integrated love, dreams, and diversification into the design of the brand from beginning to end, which has become the core concept that he wants to convey in the entire brand value.It also fits in with his philosophy of fashion, which is to constantly showcase our diversity and human complexity.

Jean Paul Gaultier’s cynical fashion attitude and style have earned him the title of "enfant terrible" in the fashion industry.He has always been committed to breaking the traditional image of male and female. In his clothing design, we can often see the style that shows the structure of clothes and the image of wearing underwear outside. This explains why most of his brand's perfume bottles feature male-female curves, which encourage people to stay true to themselves and feel free to be whoever they want to be by externalizing what's inside. At the same time, it also brings consumers with the same values closer to the brand.

In all kinds of grotesque external designs, he actually contains self-consciousness, love, courage, freedom and self-liberation. In fact, such brand core concept is unique among today's luxury brands.

by Johnny Qi

29/11/2021

Artificial intelligence (AI) has been at the forefront of many of the most groundbreaking innovations in the fragrance industry recently .

Last July, it is the famous brand Paco Rabanne, part of the Puig group, who decided to launch their first innovative perfume, “Phantom”, born from the collision between high-tech and high perfumery. Scent is said to be the sense most intimately linked to memory and emotions, so Paco Rabanne ran with this concept and decided they would create a scent which would entice positive emotions. Being a true olfactive lover, this news first came to me as a mix of surprise and confusion, as I failed to understand how algorithms could replace the creative process based on intuition and inspiration, making the perfume a true work of art.


I therefore decided to dig deeper into the topic, and understand how this new strategic process could positively impact the brand.


Paco Rabanne integrated technology from the perfume bottle to the actual creation process of the fragrance. Not only is the perfume’s metal bottle chromium-plated and shaped like a robot, but the designers had also the futuristic idea to incorporate a chip inside the spray bottle. This chip allows users to download entertaining filters, personalized playlists, and interactive games to their smartphones, giving the consumer access to the “Phantom Universe”. Sounds very fun doesn’t it ?

Paco Rabanne is reinventing the perfume as an interactive tool rather than just a “bottle”, and this fits perfectly with their brand image which is innovative and avant-garde.


This new fragrance for men, destined to “boost their confidence” and make them feel “positive emotions” was imagined by four IFF perfumers who carefully picked the ingredients at first. The human brain would have dosed what it judges wise, whereas AI has the ability to amplify the dosage of the ingredients, all by using a very specific algorithm.

The algorithm used for the creation of Phantom managed to identify the components most likely to be included in the perfume, claimed to increase self-confidence, thanks to a program called the “Science of Wellness”.

This program specifically details the impacts of raw materials on a the human being’s emotions, and the fact that AI is capable of concocting such recipes made me want to understand more about it…

I discovered that the IFF Science of Wellness program is a full range solution that incorporates 40 years of human conscious and unconscious measures, neurosciences, artificial intelligence, and IFF components. Its goal is to accompany, and guide the perfumer during the scent creation process.

For Phantom, the computer never got the better of the four composers; instead, it acted as a super-assistant perfumer, pushing them to their limitations. Rather than artificial intelligence, perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou, who coauthored this men's fragrance, prefers to talk about "augmented creativity". The computer supports the creator, suggesting new associations and avenues of work. Anne Flipo which I interviewed ended up by saying that nothing could ever replace them, as humans.

However, she also mentioned that working with AI was inevitable, and that it was important to adapt and stay open-minded. Indeed, in this case, the perfumers are boosting their ability to meet growing customer demand for wellness solutions by combining research, ingredients, and technology into one program.

By Clara O'Mahony

29/11/2021


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